Dealing with D0
(v0.2)
Tutorial
written
by : eXentric
Intro
Anyone
that has
installed
a mod
chip knows
D0. You
may not
know it
by name,
but you'll
recall
that pesky
little
point
that caused
your first
Xecuter
install
to appear
correct,
yet function
like it
was missing
entirely.
For you
Xodus
owners,
you'll
recall
this lovely
point
as the
one that
makes
your chip
flash
red. Regardless
of your
install,
this document
aims to
help capture
the elusive
D0 for
good.
A bit
of a warning
though:
this does
require
a steady
hand and
most likely
a magnifying
glass.
Don't
attempt
to follow
this article
if you
are lacking
either
;) Oh,
and by
the way:
this is
for educational
purposes
only.
Please
don't
come looking
for me
if your
ruin your
son (or
husbands)
new Christmas
present...
What (else)
you will
need
(Click
on any
picture
throughout
this article
for a
larger
version)
 |
A
Dremel
with
a
grinding
wheel,
or
other
rotational
grinding
device.
|
 |
Cutters
with
a
very
low
profile.
The
clipper
in
the
picture
was
found
in
a
grooming
kit. |
 |
Small
sanding
stone.
The
one
pictured
came
with
my
Dremel
package.
You
could
probably
even
get
by
with
a
small
rock
if
you
can't
find
anything
else. |
Getting
Started
If you
looked
at D0
under
a magnifying
glass,
this is
essentially
what you
should
see:

However,
my point
was much
less clean.
In fact,
the board
surface
coat for
my second
mod covered
D0 almost
entirely.
Since
this was
a Matrix
install,
it wreaked
havoc
on the
pogo pin
alignment.
What we
are going
to do
to compensate
for this,
is to
solder
right
to D0.
You will
begin
by making
sure that
you can
see the
connection
ring on
the point.
If your
board
masks
D0 as
mine did,
you will
want to
take a
sharp
(but small)
pin and
try to
etch away
at the
board
surface
until
the ring
is clearly
visible.
THIS TAKES
TIME.
Be careful!
You don't
want to
bust the
track
or the
ring.
Once the
ring is
clear,
wipe the
board
free of
any debris
caused
by your
etching.
The
Nitty
Gritty
The next
thing
you will
most likely
notice
is that
D0 is
far smaller
then any
wire you
might
have laying
around.
In fact,
the smallest
wire I
could
get my
hands
on was
some CAT-5.
This is
where
your rotational
grinding
bit comes
into play.
Clamp
your Dremel
to the
table
and start
it up
at its
lowest
setting.
Strip
the shielding
away from
your wire
and slowly
twist
the wire
back and
forth
over the
grinding
wheel.
Be sure
that the
wheel
is turning
away from
you. Otherwise
you'll
just keep
breaking
the wire.
Only sand
the wire
down until
its sharp
enough
to fit
down into
D0.
Now it's
time to
fire up
your soldering
iron.
Pre-coat
your wire
with some
solder.
It's okay
if a little
solder
globs
up at
the tip
of the
wire.
What you
have now
should
somewhat
resemble
the following:

Align
the wire
with the
board
and heat
it just
long enough
for the
solder
to start
to flow.

Now use
your cutters
to snip
off the
wire as
close
to the
base as
you can
get. USE
AS LITTLE
FORCE
AS POSSIBLE.
It is
far better
to take
your time
and repeatedly
use the
clippers
to wear
away at
the wire.
Otherwise
you might
find out
how easy
it is
to pop
that tip
back out
of its
new home.

Lastly,
use your
sanding
stone
to gently
file away
the bur
on top
left by
the cutters.
This ensures
a better
contact
with the
pogo pin.
When you
are done,
your board
should
look something
like this:

example
on xbox
v1.0/v1.1
board
If you
are installing
a wire
or surface
mod, you
can opt
to create
a cross-connect
joint.
This is
accomplished
by cutting
the wire
at a higher
point
and then
soldering
a wire
crossways
like so:

In real
life,
a cross-connect
might
be used
like this:

example
on xbox
v1.0/v1.1
board
Hope
that helps.
I do not
have an
e-mail
address
on xbox-scene,
but I
am on
the usual
channels
from time-to-time
if you
would
like to
as questions
or make
suggestions.
Good
luck,
and happy
modding.
Tutorial
written
by : eXentric